My sensitive skin only improved when I gave up beauty products
Turns out we can benefit from a lotion and potion drought – here's how to pare back your routine
I have learnt the hard way that too many beauty products equals an unhappy epidermis. First off, let’s remind ourselves of our skincare routines during those pandemic lockdowns. Unable to visit salons and with a surfeit of time on our hands, we whiled away the hours watching “skinfluencers” on social media. Then, empowered by a little knowledge and a lot of clickbait, became our own facialists.
Many of us embraced the trend for potent single ingredient products – and proceeded to use all of them, all at once. We began layering our hyaluronic acids with our retinols and our niacinamide – in our quest for the ultimate radiant glow. I even derma-rollered my face with what looked like an instrument of medieval torture.
Of course, I should have known better because way before the pandemic, as a beauty editor in my early twenties, I tested thousands of serums, creams, essences, mists and exfoliators sent my way.
As a result my skin progressed from merely “sensitive” to having full-blown rosacea. I self medicated with more creams. Then, a decade later, I went on maternity leave and the bags of creams, serums and potions stopped arriving – so I started to use one moisturiser, twice daily.
The surprise? My skin looked better than it ever had – calmer and clearer. My dermatologist friends credited this improvement to my product drought. In fact, one of the UK’s pre-eminent cosmetic specialists, Dr Vicky Dondos says our “more is more” product culture is the reason behind most of the compromised complexions she sees.
So, reducing your regime to a carefully calibrated, multi-benefit cream is certainly the way forward. Our mothers would approve too. After all, many of them took the one-pot approach and were brand loyal for life. (I’m thinking of Joanna Lumley and her Astral moisturiser skincare routine).
Now, I’m not suggesting everyone goes this basic, but I am saying spend less time and money and your face will be the better for it. The bottom line? Cleanse nightly (many experts believe water in the morning will protect your skin’s microbiome from being compromised), repair with a scientifically formulated, multi-ingredient cream and shield from ageing UV rays with sunscreen. You’re welcome.
Four easy ways to pare back your routine
Put your skin on an elimination diet
“My first rule is do no harm,” says Dr Dondos. “Steer clear of any harsh exfoliating products and just stick to a simple cleanser and moisturiser.” Dr Dondos often sees an improvement within weeks once clients follow her advice. Day after day she sees women attempting to perfect their skin with a plethora of products doing the exact opposite.
Overloading on too many exfoliating potions can compromise the skin barrier (which keeps hydration in and nasties out) meaning it gets irritated. After following the elimination skin diet, you can reintroduce active ingredient products carefully and individually on a weekly or monthly basis.
Treat your skin to rest days
If you are going to use anything with potentially irritating ingredients, such as retinol, try the skin cycling approach. “The concept involves using specific active ingredients only on certain days, followed by ‘rest’ days,” advises Dr Alexis Granite, CeraVe Consultant Dermatologist.
“The rest phase allows the skin to repair and reduces the risk of irritation. A four-day cycle is the most popular, which means using an active ingredient for two nights, followed by two nights of rest, then repeating. Anyone can benefit from skin cycling, but particularly those with sensitive skin.”
Splash out on tweakments
There’s a new trend emerging among beauty experts: using simple products for daily skin health but relying on tweakments to deliver the anti-ageing hit. Good for those with sensitive skin, this is about following a regime of quarterly injectables.
Think shots of hyaluronic acid-based Profhilo beneath the skin’s surface to deliver a hit of hydration and skin plumpness, Botox for line erasing and IPL (intense pulsed light) to tackle pigmentation.
Find your ideal multi-use product
Instead of a beauty cabinet full of products, skin experts recommend looking for one cream or serum that has multiple benefits (hydrating, collagen boosting, pigmentation targeting etc). Labs and chemists work hard to carefully combine and calibrate active ingredients to maximise results while minimising irritation. Discover one that suits your skin profile below…
If you just want one moisturiser
Best for troubled skin
Delo Rx The Youth Matrix Activator, £165, eudeloboutique.com
Packed with active ingredients for breakout prone skin.
Best for value
Olay’s Collagen Peptide24 MAX, £44 (currently £22 at Boots), boots.com
A brilliant and affordable allrounder.
Best for customised
Klira The Special, monthly subscription, £49, klira.skin
This moisturiser is custom blended using prescription strength actives.
Best for overnight rejuvenation
Sarah Chapman Digital Rest, £57, sarahchapman.com
Counters pollution, blue light and stress.
Best for fragile skin
Aveeno Face Calm and Restore Triple Oat Serum, £14.99, boots.com
Dr Dondos recommended, this formulation is great for a compromised barrier.
Read more: Five tricks for a flawless complexion