The power trouser suit guaranteed to make you look – and feel – your best

From oversized and androgynous, to figure-hugging and ankle-flashing, there's a suit for every shape, age and height

By Lisa Armstrong, Head of fashion 23 December 2022 • 12:00pm

Warning: if you’ve yet to try a trouser suit for size, know this – they’re highly addictive, particularly in winter and especially for evening dos.

Evening don’ts? It comes down to personal shape and preference. Length and shape of the jacket are key. Too voluminous for your frame and you can look a bit squat. Too long and it will make your legs appear shorter. I’m 5ft 4in and this olive-green Cefinn trouser suit is the Goldilocks sweet spot for me.

Shoes? If you’re going for a 7/8ths leg, then a court shoe with a kitten or 80mm heel are the best options. With flares you can go for platforms or flats, depending on how tall you fancy being.

There are so many trouser suits available now – from oversized and androgynous, to slim, figure-hugging and ankle-flashing, like the Alexander McQueen and Roland Mouret ones the Princess of Wales wore in Boston recently – that there’s the proverbial one for every shape, age and height.

There’s also a trouser suit for every mood and personality – you don’t have to get yourself in the frame of mind to wear a trouser suit, it adapts to you, rather than the other way round. Just pick your basic components from among all the primaries, pastels, satins, sequins, Prince of Wales wools and velvet.

Credit: Sarah Brick, shot at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel

Lisa wears: Blazer, £390 and trousers, £270, Cefinn (cefinn.com); Platforms, £329, LK Bennett; Rhinestone earrings, £65, Essentiel Antwerp, Other jewellery Lisa’s own

In fact there’s so much velvet, from floppy to sharp creases, you may be wondering whether you’ve missed the boat. Ponder no more. There’s almost infinite mileage in a velvet suit. It’s never going to look clichéd, in the same way that a red lipstick will never look clichéd.

That said, if you’re looking for a slightly softer lip colour with sophisticated impact, Victoria Beckham’s Posh Lipstick in Alter Ego is superb – a nourishing balm that packs plenty of pigment. For low-maintenance eyes this winter, get your lashes lifted – it makes them look longer and opens up the eyes. Then nourish them regularly with BBB’s lash oil, or use caster oil – it’s economical, but a bit messier.

On a basic level, a trouser suit also puts you in charge of your own micro climate. It provides warmth and coverage, without any of the primness or frumpiness that so many contemporary dresses have drooped their way into. You can layer up over a high necked blouse, a jumper, a lacy camisole, or go naked underneath, for the classic YSL approach to sexiness. There’s a reason this still looks modern after nearly 50 years – it’s daring without being desperate.

Have a look next time you see anyone wearing one – as well as slinky, they look comfortable, relaxed and contemporary. Much was made of Kate Middleton’s newly articulated soft power on that Boston trip. A trouser suit makes you look confident, and looking is halfway to becoming.