Living in London, I’ve got my pick of supermarkets and am not committed to any one in particular (although being able to whizz down the aisles self-scanning is helpful as I’m often rushing around).
The news about Aldi’s average prices being so much lower than Waitrose did pique my interest – and that of my colleagues – so I did a reasonably “big shop” at both supermarkets for the purposes of a taste test (it’s not all about prices if you’re lucky enough to have a reasonable food budget).
What stunned me was the breadth of choice in Aldi – sure, the filled pasta and own-brand biscuits are a bargain but I trained as a chef and love to cook from scratch. I was delighted that there was plenty of fresh produce and prestige goods.
It’s a different experience – no app to self-scan and the chilled food is all behind annoying plexi-glass doors – but the bill at the end more than makes up for it. Two baskets of 22 pretty much identical items cost £76.50 at Waitrose and £54.46 at Aldi. Those are the sums, but did the flavour add up?
Smoked salmon – Aldi wins
Waitrose’s (100g, £5.10) deemed greasy, rubbery, fleshy, limp and bland, while Aldi’s ( 200g, £4.89) was smokier and well-balanced – more subtle – with a more pleasant texture.
Raspberries – Aldi wins
Out-of-season fruit can be bland, but one was a clear winner with a far better, sweet flavour and plump texture (Aldi, £1.89), while Waitrose’s (£2.10) were at once flabby and floury.
Greek yoghurt – Aldi wins
Both brands offered 500g low-fat versions, but Aldi’s (£1.89) was overwhelmingly more popular, deemed creamy and thick with nice acidity, while the yoghurt from Waitrose (£1.25) was runnier and “stringent”.
Manchego – Waitrose wins; Gruyere – Aldi wins
Both brands had a decent offering for continental cheese and for manchego (Waitrose, left, £5.87, versus Aldi, right, £2.89), the score was equal, although the former had more length of a “nutty” taste. For gruyère, Aldi (left, £2.89) had a complex flavour and better crunchy texture. Waitrose (right, £2.92) was “basic”.
Whole chicken – Waitrose wins
Both were basic level, medium-sized raw chickens roasted for the suggested time with just a rub of oil, salt and pepper. The one from Waitrose (£5.43) was moist, plumper and with more flavour, while Aldi’s (£3.59) was smaller, “scrawny” and dried out during cooking.
Milk chocolate – Waitrose wins
A rare instance of no price discrepancy (g for £). The Waitrose bar had a good cocoa flavour, with bite and snap; the Aldi chocolate, while softer and “cheaper”, was voted a little creamier. Our chocolate expert added: “A is better than B in every way: texture, melt, flavour, finish.”
Rye sourdough – Aldi wins
Surprise, Aldi’s (£1.49) “feels more wholesome” and “elastic” although not full-flavoured; the Waitrose bread (£2.70), had a better structure and taste, but was voted “dry” more than once.
Carrot cake – Aldi wins
Out of the packet, these cakes looked identical and many felt they were both very good, but Aldi (£2.19) just edged it for a juicier texture. The Waitrose version (£3.50) was called dry and a bit bland.
Viognier – Aldi wins
Admittedly a quick grab rather than carefully read labels, but from the same grape. The Waitrose viognier (£8.99), while totally drinkable, felt slightly more astringent than the Aldi version (£5.49), a winner both on flavour (crisp but with a lovely pear tone) and price. If you're looking for a bottle to enjoy this weekend, here is the Telegraph Wine Cellar's verdict on the top wines at Aldi and the top wines at Waitrose.
Granola – Waitrose wins
Full disclosure, the Waitrose granola (£4.25) was always going to be premium from Duchy, with almonds and honey, but it lost a few points for feeling a little “stale”. Aldi’s “really nutty” granola (£2.09) was one-note, too sweet and boring.
Apple juice – Waitrose wins
When one “tastes more like apples”, it’s hard to argue. The “tangy” Waitrose juice (£1.80) was the winner; the Aldi bottle (£1.39) was unanimously voted “too sweet”.
Unsalted butter – Waitrose wins
There wasn’t much to choose between the two, although at £1.99, Aldi’s was 21p cheaper, which could add up over time. Four tasters couldn’t detect any difference, but others felt the Waitrose product was slightly sharper and creamier.
Pesto – a draw
£1.09 for Aldi, £1.30 for Waitrose so there is a big price difference and a taste one too – you’d have to decide for yourself whether you prefer the former’s slightly more acidic and oily flavour and texture, or the latter’s cheesier, drier feel.
Hazlenut spread – a draw
It’s uncanny that both have the exact same shape and size of glass jar with a white lid – and there’s little to distinguish on taste either for this popular teatime topping. The marginal view was that the £1.80 jar from Waitrose had a better texture and was slightly less saccharine, while Aldi’s for £1.39 is a more nutty, but grainy spread.
Pizza – a draw
The ham, mushroom and mascarpone pizzas both had their fans – Aldi’s (£3.99) was thought to be cheesier and with a thinner base to chew through. “Way more flavour,” said one taster. Meanwhile, the £4.95 Waitrose pizza was called more chewy, juicy and with “a lovely deep crust”.
Conclusion
Of our products tasted blind by 10 Telegraph staff members, including me, no one identified more than seven out of 16 correctly as to which supermarket they came from.