Skirts, blouses and spangles – how Gucci shook up the average man’s wardrobe

You might not own any Gucci, and you might not be aware of recent reshuffles within its court of kings, but chances are the house’s effect on men’s wardrobes has entered your sphere somehow.

Be it a teenage son who’s donning pearl necklaces or in the proliferation of 70s silhouettes on the high street, the effect of Gucci thanks to its designer Alessandro Michele has shifted the axis of men’s dressing, even if you didn’t know it.

Profits soared under the flowing haired, messianic Michele – who was installed in the top job by Francois-Henri Pinault in 2015 – and his maximalist, retro, playful aesthetic became the style signature of Harry Styles, Jared Leto and Elton John.

All of which made his abrupt departure back in November all the more surprising. Had the Michele magic lost its lustre?

Anyone expecting a grand finale from the designer will be disappointed to learn that Gucci’s latest collection, which kicked off men’s fashion week in Milan on Friday, was designed by an in-house team in the wake of Michele’s exit – and the first model, clad in a white T-shirt, beanie and khaki trousers, was a statement of low key intent.

There was still a sprinkling of Michele’s trademark fairy dust and whimsy, but the collection was more tempered in tone. Yes, there were spangles in the form of metallic silver biker trousers, sequinned dinner jackets and a coat rippling with pearlescent paillettes, but the OTT-ness of Gucci-gone-by was much less prevalent.

Instead, flared jeans, narrow jackets and crisp trench coats spoke to a more streamlined kind of guy. Michele could do downplayed too, but this new direction felt more clean and unfettered. Cartoon emblems out, crisp shirts in.

It might not be as joyful, but in uncertain financial terrain it’s probably a safe bet; rumour has it that Pinault wants to steer the house into the timeless luxury sphere of Hermès or Chanel instead of the high voltage theatrics it’s been known for.

“It’s a real change,” said actor Idris Elba, who attended the show alongside Nick Cave, wearing a bold turquoise suit. “The silhouettes were different and unusual, in a good way. It’s a real step in a different direction,” he said.

That may be the case, but chances are owner Pinault doesn’t want too dramatic a sea change while he shops for a new designer to run the house; he’s still weathering the Balenciaga child pornography scandal, the French house being the other star gem in his firmament.

There were still some of the recent Gucci staples – the 70s aesthetic, for example, and the fondness for British tweedy fabrics and rugby shirts – to keep a sense of calm continuity. But the narrower silhouettes, via lean trousers contrasted with boxy blazers, and the grungy sportswear and ski jackets were a definite shift on from the Michelle loucheness and razzmatazz. Whether it will have the same effect on men’s wardrobes, time will tell.